Part Two- The Journey from Saigon Through the Mekong Delta
We had
reached a comfortable level of familiarity with the people and
places
in Saigon after
spending several nights at the Bich Duyen Hotel and walking
extensively on the
streets. Who knows how many miles we walked. So it was
hard
to think
about leaving for other places because there was still so much to
see
and do in Saigon, but
the rest of the country was out there to explore.
- -
It's
incredibly easy to travel on your own in Vietnam. There's a travel
agency
on every corner and
the hotels can arrange travel for you as well. We had this
vague
idea of going down to the Mekong Delta, over into Cambodia, up to
Phnom
Penh (the capital of
Cambodia) and then to Siem Reap and Angkor Wat, and
eventually over to
Laos where we'd reconnect with Northern Vietnam and then
leisurely
make our way back down to Saigon for the return flight home,
Wow!
Well, that would have
been a fantastic route if we had several months for the
trip
rather than several weeks! But we didn't know this at the
time.
The Bich Duyen Hotel had flyers posted with Delta Adventure Tours and as our hotel was super reputable we figured Delta Adventure would be likewise and they were. We stopped by their office on the sidewalk and told the lady that our objective was to get to Phnom Penh by way of the Mekong Delta.
The
trip from Saigon to Phnom Penh is a standard trip that we
could
have arranged on our
own by purchasing bus and/or boat tickets. But the travel
agencies
all offer tours that include bus and boat travel and hotel
arrangements
at
comparable or less pricing than if you made the arrangements
yourself. So we went with one of their
three day tours that would take us from Saigon to and
through
the Mekong Delta and leave us off in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. This
tour was
very inexpensive.
Total cost for the two of us including transportation and
three
nights hotel accommodation was $160. There were parts that were a
bit
touristy
which we had expressly wanted to avoid at all costs but overall
the
price was right, it
met our objectives and we met some interesting fellow
travelers
along the way.
We
checked out of the Bich Duyen hotel just before 7 the next
morning, promising Chanh that
we'd return, which we did later. The tour company picked us
up at the
hotel and we boarded a bus with about 20 other travelers, the
majority
of whom
were in their mid 20's from Australia and various countries in
Europe.
Throughout our trip
we saw very few Americans. It was a different perspective to
be on a
bus riding through Saigon way above street level looking down. We
had spent the last few
days getting around the city by foot or motorcycle at street
level
right thick in the middle of all the traffic rubbing elbows with
the best
of the
motorcycles.
The
Mekong Delta isn't that far from Saigon at all, maybe two and a
half hours
by bus if you went
strictly by bus which is what we thought we were going to
do.
But the bus took us
to a small boat on the Saigon River. The other
passengers
and us
looked around at each other because we weren't expecting to be on a
boat
just then. The
Vietnamese are masters of the universe in arranging
sometimes
strange and
unexpected travel situations where you're just not sure what's
going
on thereby making a
trip that's already an adventure into even more of an
adventure. The way we
looked at it was that we got two adventures for the
price
of
one.
This
boat sat low in the water and took us out of Saigon and into the
peaceful
Mekong Delta.
We got to see a wide variety of scenery and life as it is
lived
in the Mekong. All
types of boats and barges were piled high with every
imaginable fruit and
vegetable. On the banks of the river people were tending to
their
farms and animals and doing laundry. The boat had to stop every so
often
and cut
the engine in order to remove some of the thick vegetation from
the
propellers. Life here
on the Mekong River was far removed from the hustle and
bustle of
Saigon.
After
a couple hours we stopped at Turtle Island and got into a much
smaller row
boat in
the shape of a canoe. The waterways there were a narrow labyrinth
with
trees and
plants overhanging close beside us and just above our heads.
An
elderly
Vietnamese woman and Matt were the ones rowing our boat. During the
rest
of the
day we were off and on several more boats and taken to Unicorn
Island and
Dragon
Island where we visited local businesses like a place where they
made
coconut
candy and a honey bee farm. Later that evening we arrived in Can
Tho
where we
spent the night in a hotel arranged as part of the tour. It was
raining
cats and
dogs in Can Tho. We went out and found a great place for dinner.
The
salads
they served were incredibly fresh.
Some
passengers departed the next morning to return to Saigon while
others from
other tours joined
us. This Vietnamese Tour was very fluid. We acquired a
comical
smiley animated new tour guide guy who called the two of us Buddy
and
Buddies the whole
time and he stayed with us until Chau Doc.
We were soon off by boat again to the Cai Rang Floating Market where boats of all descriptions out in the middle of the river were loaded to heaping capacity with all kinds of foods to sell. Many were local farmers selling coconuts, papaya, bananas, pineapples, fish, rice and everything under the sun from their fertile farms along the river. Next we visited a rice husking mill and a rice noodle making shop where it was sweltering work for the employees.
Later
that afternoon we were back on a bus heading for the town of Chau
Doc on
the Vietnamese
Cambodian border. Matt was not over jet lag at this point in
time
and he slept when he
should have been looking out the window of the bus as there
was a lot
to see. At one point there were these huge sticks of incense for
sale
by the side of the
road and he missed it. How he could even sleep on this bus
was
beyond belief as we kept on hitting bumps that would send everyone
in the
bus, particularly us
in the back of the bus, up in the air and back
down.
This
bus trip from Can Tho to Chau Doc took about six hours and was
punctuated
with a lot of horn
honking by our driver and everyone else on the road. Life is
lived
right beside the roadways in Vietnam with people walking,
animals
strolling about,
children playing and of course the ubiquitous motorcycles
all
unnervingly close to
the bus and each other. The driver drove crazy, layed on
the horn
at every opportunity and aggressively passed other vehicles.
Just
before reaching Chau
Doc we stopped at an interesting crocodile farm.
We
arrived in the border town of Chau Doc late that afternoon, glad to
get off
the bus,
and checked into the Delta Floating Hotel, floating as it were on
the
mighty
Mekong. As we were checking in management asked if we would mind
having a
Japanese guy named
Satoshi standing nearby share our room as it appeared they
had
overbooked and had no room available for him.
Satoshi joined us for
a walk from one end of Chau Doc to the other. We were
used
to being
politely stared at by the Vietnamese by this time but curiously
when
Satoshi
joined us it was as if we two were invisible and all the staring
was
directed
at Satoshi. We stopped by a sidewalk bakery where they had these
tasty
looking
colorful round green cakes which we didn't buy but the sight of
them
remains
vividly today. If ever back in Chau Doc it will be straight to
that
bakery.
It was
interesting watching Satoshi communicate with a Vietnamese shop
owner
about the
purchase of a cell phone. He was trying to figure out if the Sim
card
included
overseas talk time outside of Vietnam and if it would work in
Cambodia.
His
Japanese mannerisms and those of the Vietnamese were curious to
observe
because
they didn't seem to have much of a language in common. Satoshi used
his
eyes and
the nod of his head a lot. For twenty minutes they went back and
forth
trying to
figure out what each other was talking about but in the end the
two
questions
never really got either asked or answered and no cell phone
was
purchased
either.
The
three of us had dinner that night in an open air restaurant at the
Floating
Hotel overlooking,
you guessed it, the Mekong River. Much of this trip is
beginning
to revolve around the Mekong River and that will remain true too
once
we get to Cambodia,
which isn't far away at this point. We watched the sun set
and
various boats coming and going and wondered if Cambodia was in fact
in the
trees we could see on
the other side of the river. It was a relaxed evening in a
nice
setting and the food was fantastic. So we went to bed that night
kind of
excited because
Cambodia and the mystical sounding name of Phnom Penh were
both
on the horizon for
tomorrow.
The next morning we had breakfast at the floating hotel as it was included with our tour. Most of our fellow travelers were heading back to Saigon, only a few of us were continuing on to Cambodia. Soon we were off on a boat headed to a Muslim community a ways up the river. We walked through the village but weren't quite sure why they took us there. We ended up back at the boat dock and here acquired new tour mates. Off to a different boat this time, presumably now en route to Cambodia which we knew must be close by. The boat trip would take about 6 hours on one of their speed boats, but speedy it was not. Time wasn't a consideration for us, we just enjoyed the trip.
In
between selling Christmas trees here at the greenhouse we are
diligently
writing text and
transfering photos from our phones for this section as well
as
the next
three parts of our story that will include Phnom Penh, Ankgor Wat
and a
conclusion to our
travels. Check back often for story updates and the
continuation of our
journey into Cambodia. Matt and Dale